Gisozi genocide memorial centre opened in April 2004 on the 10th anniversary of the genocide as a lasting tribute to those who died and as a beacon of education for the future.
Gisozi is on the bus route between town and Nyabagogo. The bus stops at the bottom of the hill, which you need to walk up to get to the entrance. Alternatively it costs around FRW 400-600 (£0.40-£0.60/$0.80-$1.20) by moto. Entrance is by donation.
The centre is extensive in the amount of information it provides and some people may find the graphic displays upsetting. It begins with the lead-up to genocide, a walk-through detailing the political and historical context. From there you enter a central room with viewing booths showing survivors talking about their experiences and glass cases containing recovered skulls and clothing from people who were killed. There is also a photo gallery where the families of victims come to pin pictures of their loved ones.
Upstairs is another walk-through and photo gallery devoted to children. This is a particularly graphic display as it explains about the lives of some of the children: who their friends were, what games they liked to play, their favourite foods and, most disturbingly, how they died. It can be overwhelming.
The final display is an important one – it documents genocide across the world from the Nazis to Cambodia and the Balkans. This is an integral part of the centre as it stops what happened in Rwanda from being thought of as an isolated incident and reminds visitors that this can happen anywhere in the world.
As well as the internal display there is a memorial garden which leads down to a number of mass graves where the remains of over 250,000 victims have been reinterred. At the top of the grounds you will find a café serving food and drink and a documentation centre which is currently under development.
Each year at the beginning of April, Rwanda observes Genocide Memorial Week. At the start of this memorial week, Gisozi, like other memorial centres across the country, holds a service where thousands of people come to mourn.
This can be a deeply affecting time and displays of open grief are intense. Travellers are welcome to attend the event and local people often say that they are glad that the outside world has come to see what happened here, but on a personal level it is not a pleasant experience to witness. People often require medical intervention for trauma and flash-backs and the atmosphere over this week is very sombre, all clubs, social venues and many shops close. In addition there is a high police presence and an attack occurred on the centre itself this year.
Although the centre is a recommended site for all visitors to Rwanda, if you are not visiting Rwanda with a particular interest in the genocide it is a good idea to avoid the first couple of weeks in April.
Every Thursday and Saturday the centre runs an open event where survivors tell their stories and then a film or documentary is screened after which a debate takes place where visitors can ask and discuss any questions they have. For further information, contact the centre: office@aegistrust.org / (+250) 0830 7666 or in the UK (+44) 1623 836627.